Glenfinnan is known for its role in the Jacobite Rising of 1745 and its iconic railway viaduct, made famous by the Harry Potter films. I came to see the viaduct and take in one of Scotland’s most scenic train journeys. The station was small and charming, with vintage carriages to stay in, and a museum just behind. In 2014 I stayed nearby, visited the church, and hardly noticed the rain—it was all part of the Highlands’ spell.